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Get ready to stitch up some sludge with this Grimer crochet pattern! Grimer might look like just a pile of goo, but this Poison-type Pokémon has a surprisingly big personality. Born from toxic waste, it slithers through cities and sewers, spreading its icky charm wherever it goes.
This crochet pattern captures Grimer’s gooey grin and lumpy texture, making it a delightfully weird and fun project to make. It’s the perfect addition to any collection for those who love Pokémon that are a little different – and a lot of fun!
So grab your yarn and hook, and bring this lovable sludge monster to life, just make sure to keep it away from clean water!
Supplies you'll need to crochet Grimer
General supplies:
- Crochet hook 2,5 mm, I always use clover amour hooks for my projects!
- Sewing needle
- Stuffing
- Stitch marker
With Amigurumi you guage doesn’t matter much. Using smaller hook and yarn will make you finished Grimer smaller, and bigger hook and yarn will make it bigger. Just make sure that your yarn and hook fits together and makes a tight fabric so the stuffing won’t show through!
Be aware that my Grimer is worked in 100% cotton which makes a rather stiff fabric. Your grimer might not stand as flat with other types of yarn.
For a smaller version, about 12 cm tall, or 5 inches, you will need the following yarn.
I reccomend Hobbii Rainbow cotton 8/4. This yarn is a 100% cotton and very nice to work with! With this yarn, I use a 2,5 mm hook. If Rainbow cotton is sold out, I can also recommend Friends cotton from Hobbii as a direct substitute.
- Light purple
- Darker purple
- a bit of cool toned purple or blue for the tounge
- a bit of black and white
Abbreviations in this crochet pattern
Rnd = round
mr = magic ring
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
BLO = back loop only
FLO = Front loop only
inc = increase, 2 sc in the same stitch
dec = decrease, make 2 stitches into 1
CC = color change
ss = slip stitch
ch = chain
FO = Finish Off
Grimer crochet pattern
Bottom
In light purple
Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6)
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 6: (2sc, inc, 2sc) x 6 (36)
Rnd 7: (5sc, inc) x 6 (42)
Rnd 8: (3sc, inc, 3sc) x 6 (48)
Rnd 9: (7sc, inc) x 6 (54)
Rnd 10: (4sc, inc, 4sc) x 6 (60)
Rnd 11: (9sc, inc) x 6 (66)
Rnd 12: (5sc, inc, 5sc) x 6 (72)
ss and FO.
CC = color change: the color change is made in the last st before ‘CC’. In the st before CC, make the st as usual, but the last yarn-over should be made in the new color. This way you get 1 st fully in the old color, and the next fully in the new color.
Body
Use a light purple and a dark purple for this piece. Whenever you see CC, change color to the other color. Only small sections are made in the darker purple – you never make a full round in the darker purple. The dark sections are also in bold font.
When working in a stitch that is of the dark purple color, only work that stitch in the back loop. The front loops will be used later to make “goo-rolls”.
Start in lighter purple.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6)
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: sc, CC, 2sc, (sc, inc, sc) x 3, 4sc, inc, sc, CC, (sc, inc, sc) x 2 (30)
Remember to only work in BLO when working into the dark stitches in rnd 6 and all other rounds with dark stitches.
Rnd 6-7: sc around (30)
Rnd 8: 6sc, (2sc, inc, sc) x 3, 12sc (33)
Rnd 9: 2dec, sc, CC, 4sc, (sc, inc, 2sc) x 3, 4sc, CC, 4dec (30)
Rnd 10: dec, 6sc, (sc, inc, 2sc) x 3, 6sc, 2dec (30)
Rnd 11: 6sc, (3sc, inc, 2sc) x 3, 6sc (33)
Rnd 12: 3sc, CC, (inc, 3sc) x 3, 3sc, (3sc, inc) x 3, CC, 3sc (39)
Rnd 13: sc around (39)
Rnd 14: (6sc, inc, 6sc) x 3 (42)
Rnd 15: (13sc, inc) x 3 (45)
Rnd 16: (7sc, inc, 7sc) x 3 (48)
Rnd 17: 11sc, CC, 4sc, inc, 15sc, inc, 5sc, CC, 10sc, inc (51)
Rnd 18: 4sc, CC, 4sc, inc, 2sc, CC, 14sc, inc, 13sc, CC, 3sc, inc, 6sc, CC, 2sc (54)
Rnd 19: 14sc, CC, 3sc, inc, 17sc, inc, 3sc, CC, 10sc, CC, 4sc, inc (57)
Rnd 20: 7sc, CC, 50sc (57)
Rnd 21: (9sc, inc, 9sc) x 3 (60)
Rnd 22: 12sc, CC, (5sc, inc, 6sc) x 3, 12sc (63)
Rnd 23: 11sc, CC, 52sc (63)
Rnd 24: 23sc, CC, (inc, 5sc) x 4, CC, 16sc (66)
Rnd 25: (inc, 10sc) x 6 (72)
Now we are connecting the bottom piece to the body piece. Place the pieces with the wrong sides facing each other. The next round is worked through both pieces. Before closing up the pieces fully, stuff the piece. If you want, you can also cut and add cardboard to stabilize the bottom and make it stay flat (thicker plastic sheet or similar can also be used).
Rnd 26: Through both layers, (5sc, inc) x 12 (84)
Rnd 27: In FLO, (2sc, 3hdc, 4dc, 3hdc 2sc) x 6 (84)
Rnd 28: (2sc, 3hdc, 4dc, 3hdc 2sc) x 6 (84)
Rnd 29: ss around going through the normal stitch and the remaining back loop from round 27. This gives a nice edge to the piece.
Goo-rolls
To create the illusion of rolls of goo, flip your Grimer upside down (so you will work in the same crochet direction you did when making the body). Now attach dark purple yarn to remaining front loops and make a ss in every remaining front loop and FO after. Do that for all the dark purple stripes.
Mouth
Start in black. The piece is started by working in rows. Start by chaining 7, the work starts in the 2nd chain from the hook.
Row 1-3: 6sc, ch1, turn (6)
Row 4: sc, CC to tongue color, 4sc, CC to black, sc, CC to tongue color again, ch1, turn (6)
Row 5: sc, hdc, 2dc, hdc, (sc, ss) in the last stitch. Cut and FO the yarn.
Now we will make the purple edging around the mouth. Be aware that the black edge at the top (chain start) will not be worked into.
Connect light purple yarn to the black corner of the piece – be sure the crochet direction is down the side and not across the starting chain.
sc around the piece with approximately 1sc pr row. At a bottom corner of the mouth, do the following to create a goo-drip: ch6, start working in 3rd ch from hook, hdc, sc, ss
Afterwards continue the sc around until you reach the top of the mouth again. FO the purple yarn in the corner. You now have the finished mouth-piece with a black top, a tongue and a drip from the bottom corner.
Arms
To make the arms we will start by making 3 individual fingers and connect them to form the rest of the arm. Along the arms we will use colorchanges (CC) like we did when making the body. You should still only work in the back loop when working in stitches that are in the dark purple color – just like with the body.
Fingers
Work in light purple
Rnd 1: 6sc in mr (6)
Rnd 2-3: sc around (6)
Make 3 fingers. FO on 2 of the fingers, leave the yarn attached on the 3rd finger and continue below. You will be connecting the fingers in the next round.
Rnd 4: 5sc in the piece with the yarn attached (leaving 1 st unused), pick up the 2nd finger, make 5 sc in the 2nd finger (leaving 1 st unused), pick up the 3rd finger and make 5sc in the 3rd finger (again leaving 1 st unused) (15 stitches total)
Rnd 5: start the round in the first sc you made in round 4, sc around (15)
Rnd 6: sc around (15)
There will be a small hole between the fingers from leaving stitches unused – sew the hole closed before continuing.
Rnd 7: sc, CC, 13sc, CC, sc (15)
Rnd 8: sc around (15)
Rnd 9: 8sc, CC, 7sc (15)
Rnd 10: 6sc, CC, 9sc (15)
Rnd 11: sc around (15)
stuff the arm
Rnd 12: (dec, sc) x 5 (10)
Rnd 13: dec x 5 (5)
FO leaving tail for sewing. Make 2 arms. Make Goo-rolls like the ones done on the body.
Eyes
In white
Make the following in a mr: sc, hdc, 2sc, hsc, sc
Pull the ring tight and FO.
Embroider pupils or add small safety eyes to the bottom of the eye.
Assembly of your crochet Grimer
Your Grimer is almost done. Add the eyes on rounds 4-5 with approximately 3 stitches in between. Add the mouth with the start between rnd 8-9. Sew the arms to either side on rounds 12-15 reaching forward.